How TikTok excludes and marginalises non-white femininity in fashion “core” communties

Abstract

Digital third spaces such as TikTok emphasise Eurocentric beauty traits through fashion-related “cores”, which suggests an environment that values certain aesthetics over others. This may result in the underrepresentation of non-Eurocentric identities and aesthetics, forcing users to modify their expressions to adhere to a set of standards in order to gain acceptance from the community. This paper examines the role of TikTok in shaping identity and fashion narratives to highlight the tension between inclusivity and exclusivity within these platforms. Although digital third spaces offer broader inclusivity due to their global nature and connectivity, they often inadvertently promote a narrow standard of beauty and style that favours Eurocentric aesthetics. This paper specifically focuses on the marginalisation of women of colour and their fashion choices, as these do not align with popular trends and media-endorsed “cores”, indicating a discrepancy in representation that breeds disconnection and undervaluation of diverse identities. High-profile fashion magazines amplify this issue by spotlighting specific trends, thus influencing the broader cultural conversation surrounding aesthetics and inadvertently reinforcing narrow beauty standards. The complexity of inclusivity within digital fashion spaces calls for a critical examination of the algorithms and community dynamics that shape these digital interactions and the recognition of a platform’s power in influencing inclusivity. Hence, in this paper, the necessity of intentional content curation and inclusive algorithmic practices are underscored to foster a more equitable digital environment where diverse identities and expressions are celebrated.

 

 

How TikTok excludes and marginalises non-white femininity in viral fashion core communties

TikTok serves as a digital “third space,” providing a key venue for Generation Z to express and explore identity. With its global reach, TikTok presents itself as a widely inclusive environment where users can freely express themselves and engage with a diverse community. However, the platform’s pervasive nature influences users’ engagements, as the constant immersion into the community’s favoured aesthetics can shape their experiences and interactions. (Hampton & Wellman, 2018). Despite its potential for inclusivity, the platform’s reliance on archetypal fashion trends and tropes often marginalises female representation, particularly for those who diverge from the viral norms of beauty and fashion. The emphasis on aesthetics and individuality among Gen Z not only drives their demand for beauty and fashion products but also underscores their engagement with digital content and brands, positioning them as a significant audience within the fashion marketing sphere (Feng et al., 2022). This dichotomy of self-expression and marginalisation on TikTok illuminates its implications for Gen Z’s conceptualisation of beauty and identity within their online communities.

This paper explores the representation and marginalisation of women from diverse ethnic backgrounds in the context of popular fashion trends on TikTok, with an emphasis on the Eurocentric origins and biases of these trends. It posits that TikTok, as a leading influencer in global fashion discourse on social media, is shaping societal biases and promoting Eurocentric beauty standards that predominantly feature and favour characteristics associated with European or white identities, as evidenced by trends like the “tomato girl”, inspired by Italian women, or the “vanilla girl”, referencing white women. This paper argues that such a narrow aesthetic focus exacerbates the marginalisation of women of colour, who find their cultural aesthetics and identities underrepresented or altogether absent within these digital fashion narratives. Through an analysis of specific fashion trends and their historical roots, alongside an examination of user interaction and algorithmic preferences on the platform, this study illuminates the systemic exclusion embedded within TikTok’s fashion-based content. The consequences of this exclusion impact users’ self-performance and representation on the platform, perpetuating a monolithic beauty standard (Hampton & Wellman, 2018).

TikTok has profoundly transformed social media interaction and communication, transcending its role as a mere entertainment medium. It offers a vibrant space for users to express and explore their identities, leveraging the platform’s fast, visual, and interactive capabilities accessible via mobile and tablet devices. Particularly for Gen Z, TikTok serves as an instant source of entertainment that facilitates immediate and imaginative self-expression. This self-expression is significantly enhanced by the platform’s short-form video content, which accommodates a wide array of individual and collective identity manifestations.

Moreover, TikTok distinguishes itself through features such as a sophisticated algorithm that curates personalised content feeds and the promotion of interactive challenges. These challenges encourage users to share personal narratives, cultural expressions, and unique facets of their lives, which tend to be less articulated on alternative platforms; consequently, TikTok has become a breeding ground for the emergence and flourishing of diverse subcultures and niche groups. Each of these groups thrives on distinct norms, values, and symbols, communicated through targeted hashtags and trends and fostering a rich tapestry of digital communities (Bhandari & Bimo, 2022; Karpova & Borymska, 2022).

Furthermore, the interactivity intrinsic to TikTok not only amplifies user engagement but also strengthens the sense of community, as users actively participate by commenting, sharing, and creating content in response to others, thus weaving a collaborative narrative that deepens connections and enhances the user experience on the platform. This active participation fosters a robust community spirit, cementing TikTok’s status as a pivotal space for identity exploration and communal support (Lee & Abidin, 2023). Besides, the representation of individual identity on social media platforms such as TikTok is not only central to user engagement and communication but also to the platforms’ sustainability. Users on TikTok actively construct and express their identities within a networked community structure, which is a tenet of networked individualism. These digital spaces provide an infrastructure whereby users present a networked self that is not just distinct in its uniqueness but also connective, allowing one to find and engage with like-minded individuals (Hampton & Wellman, 2018).

Thus, a notable aspect of TikTok’s influence on Gen Z is its impact on the conception of beauty and identity. The fashion and style perpetuated by social media platforms such as TikTok can be understood as distinct visual themes that individuals adopt to express their personalities, interests, and values. Each aesthetic has specific characteristics, including particular patterns, colour palettes, and clothing accessories, which serve as a form of nonverbal communication to convey aspects of an individual’s identity (Mazurek, 2023) When people share their aesthetic style on TikTok, they often find others who appreciate and emulate similar styles, leading to the formation of online communities bonded over shared fashion sensibilities. Moreover, when people exhibit their style on TikTok, it creates communities centred around mutual tastes in fashion. Participation within these communities can provide individuals with a sense of closeness and validation, as members often support and inspire one another (Hampton & Wellman, 2018) (Suh, 2020). The shared aesthetics also serve as a common language, creating a space where individuals can explore and affirm their identities collectively.

As the platform’s aesthetic communities expand, the prominence of Eurocentric and hyper-feminine aesthetics becomes increasingly apparent. These “core” aesthetics, characterised by their alignment with Western beauty standards, command significant attention and engagement within the TikTok ecosystem. For individuals actively engaging with these hashtag-driven core aesthetics, TikTok transcends its role as a mere social media platform, emerging as a pivotal “third place” for community interaction and belonging. Thus, users not only forge connections with individuals but also meticulously craft and refine their digital identities to resonate with shared stylistic preferences (Hampton & Wellman, 2018).

The perpetuation of specific beauty standards, especially those that are Eurocentric and hyper-feminine, through popular content on TikTok carries profound implications. It fundamentally reshapes how individuals perceive themselves and choose to present their identities, both within digital realms and in tangible reality. This phenomenon is not merely about aesthetic preference; it signifies the establishment of a normative beauty standard that garners widespread acceptance and emulation among the platform’s diverse user base.

The nuanced presentation of self on platforms like TikTok acts as a pivotal nexus for initiating and sustaining interactions, as it offers a shared space where individuals can explore and affirm their identities, thereby cultivating a sense of belonging and community TikTok allows users to maintain contact and articulate their association with the community over time. For instance, they might engage with a network of users through frequent posts, repost, hashtags and likes which fosters a sense of ongoing connection and community. This persistent engagement is central to understanding the collective identity that defines the TikTok experience for Generation Z (Hampton, 2015). Through shared interests, aesthetics, and values, users can forge lasting connections and contribute to the evolving narrative of their communities.

However, the quest for inclusivity within these digital communities presents its own set of challenges. As platforms like TikTok continue to grow, the representation of diverse identities becomes increasingly crucial. In this context, the ability of these platforms to embrace and celebrate a wide spectrum of identities directly impacts their ability to foster a truly inclusive community. This inclusivity is not only a matter of social responsibility but also a strategic imperative for the sustainability and relevance of the platform in a rapidly evolving digital ecosystem. Ensuring that diverse voices and perspectives are represented and valued within the community is essential for nurturing a rich, dynamic, and engaging social media environment that reflects the multifaceted nature of global society (Elisa, n.d; Fisher et al., 2016)

 

Third Places and their Role in Identity Discovery Online

Third places, both physical and digital, play a pivotal role in identity discovery online (Merchant, 2006). Identity portrayal impacts how users perceive one another, dictating the nature of their interactions. For instance, social media profiles and shared content become a form of self-expression that invites others to connect and communicate, fostering an environment where ideas and culture propagate (Cover, 2022). Additionally, when users’ identities resonate with the network’s ethos, this can enhance participation and engagement within the online community (Cover, 2022; Merchant, 2006). Online spaces, like a physical “third place”, promote the formation of an environment that spreads ideas and culture.

Digital third spaces, while often seen as more inclusive alternatives to traditional environments such as cafés or community centres, still present complex issues of representation (Merchant, 2006). Despite the global reach of social media platforms, which suggests broad inclusivity, diverse populations continue to be underrepresented or fall prey to stereotypes online, as a result of which diverse groups of female fashion influencers and everyday users often find themselves outside the mainstream narratives that circulate on these platforms.

This sense of exclusion can be particularly pronounced for women of colour whose style and aesthetics might not align with what is typically showcased in the digital community’s popular content. The less visible or validated these personal expressions of style become, the more they can breed feelings of disconnection and the impression that their identities and experiences are less valued. Trends and audience approval on platforms such as TikTok tend to favour narrow standards of beauty and fashion, especially within certain subcultures of fashion, which could unintentionally give precedence to some aesthetics while sidelining others.

When considering the power of media endorsement, the situation becomes even more evident. High-profile fashion magazines, when they turn their spotlight to TikTok trends, often highlight “cores” and aesthetics that predominantly align with a Eurocentric aesthetic, such as “bimbocore”, “tomato girl”, “cottagecore”, and “vanilla girl” aesthetics. On top of that, major publications such as Vogue, Elle, and Paper Magazine analyse these trends, bringing them into an even broader cultural conversation. For example, Summers’ (2023) article titled “Ranking 2023’s Internet Aesthetic Trends” explored “Europecore”, pointing out its aspirational nature that draws heavily on slip dresses and strappy sandals – choices that evoke European travel and leisure. Moreover, Summers also focused on the “coquette” aesthetic for paying homage to the white, cisgender ideal of femininity, a critique that hits at the core of the inclusivity debate and a sentiment echoed by other observers.

Turning our attention to “cottagecore” and other “Europecore” aesthetics, like the “tomato girl”, which has captivated a vast audience on TikTok, we uncover another dimension of digital fashion narratives and their implications for inclusivity. “Cottagecore” celebrates an idyllic rural lifestyle, emphasising simplicity, harmony with nature, and a return to traditional crafts and clothing styles. The aesthetic is characterised by flowing dresses, floral patterns, and pastoral imagery, resonating with a longing for a simpler, more tranquil life. A cursory search of the #Cottagecore hashtag on TikTok reveals millions of followers and an extensive collection of content, underscoring its widespread popularity and influence.

However, the “cottagecore” phenomenon on TikTok also brings to light the platform’s role in perpetuating narrow beauty and lifestyle standards. While ostensibly promoting values of simplicity and sustainability, the aesthetic predominantly features imagery and narratives that align with Eurocentric ideals of beauty and rural life. This representation often overlooks the diversity of rural experiences and identities, particularly those of people of colour, whose realities and contributions to rural and agricultural communities are markedly absent or underrepresented in “cottagecore” content. The overwhelming popularity of the #Cottagecore hashtag, therefore, not only highlights the aesthetics’ appeal but also raises critical questions about the inclusivity of digital communities formed around such trends.

Europecore is a fashion trend characterized by styles that evoke the charm and sophistication of European aesthetics. It became particularly popular in the summer of 2023. The trend reflects a desire to manifest the glamour and old-world appeal associated with vacationing in Europe. (Spellings, 2022) People inspired by this trend might wear items like slip dresses, strappy sandals, and pieces influenced by iconic European film stars or vacation styles from the continent. (Hyland, 2024). The Europecore trend reflects the adoption and idealization of various European cultures’ fashion and aesthetic attributes in an aspirational way. The Europecore trend includes vintage styles, inspired by famous European actresses and classic films. Romy Schneider and Jane Birkin’s relaxed poolside looks from the movie “La Piscine,” and Grace Kelly’s chic appearance in the South of France from “To Catch a Thief” are examples. The TV series “The White Lotus” features Aubrey Plaza in ’50s-inspired outfits like Audrey Hepburn and Monica Vitti, and Jennifer Coolidge in a headscarf like Vitti, showcasing the trend’s European influences (Hyland, 2024). However, these instances are all based on a European perspective that focuses on white fashion icons and references from cinema. Even when it is as simple as their influence being white or lighter skin, travelling to Europe.

The “vanilla girl” aesthetic is characterised by its minimalistic style, often represented by women wearing beige or cream-coloured clothing and simple hairstyles, with a fresh face that appears free of makeup. Criticism of the “vanilla girl” aesthetic points to its primary association with white, blonde women, which has been seen as problematic and potentially racially exclusive (Mazurek, 2023). To counter the issues associated with the “vanilla girl” aesthetic and to create a more inclusive movement, a TikTok creator named Aiyana Ishmael voiced her intent to start a “chocolate girl” aesthetic (Mazurek, 2023). This counter-initiative exemplifies the power of individual users to effect change within digital platforms.

Conclusion

In conclusion, the exploration of identity and community within digital third spaces such as TikTok has unveiled a complex landscape of representation. While these platforms promise an inclusive alternative to traditional third spaces, they can inadvertently propagate a narrow standard of beauty that primarily aligns with Eurocentric aesthetics. This situation often results in the marginalisation of women of colour, whose unique style and narratives may not conform to what is predominantly featured and endorsed. The engagement of major fashion magazines with such trends further perpetuates this exclusivity, emphasising the need for a critical review of the inclusivity practices within these digital spaces. Thus, this is a pressing call for platforms to employ more inclusive algorithms and community management strategies. By doing so, they can better honour the diversity of their users and ensure that digital third spaces become truly reflective of the rich tapestry of global cultures and identities.

 

 

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