Abstract:

This paper explores how the TikTok fashion community highlights the internal conflicts faced by Generation Z, who strive to create a sustainable future while keeping up with ever-increasing trend cycles. The TikTok app has allowed for users to engage in communities and topics effortlessly through its powerful recommendation algorithm known as the ‘For You Page’ (FYP). The TikTok fashion community is an example of how the app encourages the formation of diverse and accepting communities. These communities are not limited by place, demographic, or belief systems like traditional communities. The paper discusses how the TikTok algorithm builds specific smaller communities, resulting in the creation of many ‘subcommunities’ within the fashion community. However, the speed at which ‘micro trends’ and ‘cores’ come in and out of fashion has a negative effect on the environment and speeds up already fast fashion. The paper argues that the TikTok fashion community shows the internal conflicts faced by Generation Z, who are torn between their desires for a sustainable future and an ‘on-trend’ wardrobe. The paper comes under the stream of Communities and Social Media, where the unique nature of TikTok encourages the formation of diverse and accepting communities, the consequences of these diverse communities regarding fast fashion, and the debate around fast fashion on TikTok and the multiple perspectives it showcases.

 

 

Introduction

 

The short video sharing app TikTok has experienced a meteoric rise, in January of 2018 TikTok claimed that globally they had 55 million users, by September 2021 TikTok was announcing that they had reached one billion active users globally Bursztynsky, (2021). TikTok has earned the affection of Generation Z who make up over 60% of the app’s users Muliadi, (2020). TikTok’s powerful recommendation algorithm also known as the ‘For You Page’ (FYP) has allowed for users to engage in communities and topics effortlessly as each video is recommended based on how they engaged with content previously. Fashion is one of the most popular communities on the site with #Fashion now having over 248.3 billion views TikTok, (2023). The huge scale of the TikTok fashion community has been attributed to the more casual nature of posting short, easy to make content that could turn anyone into a viral sensation. Whereas older platforms like Instagram that have evolved to the point where each post is highly choreographed Allaire, (2020). Whilst the positives of the TikTok fashion community are evident through the large amount of self-expression shown, Shaw, (2022) points out a rising speed at which new trends emerge and old ones die and the negative effects this has on fast fashion. A debate has started within the TikTok fashion community as Generation Z are pulled in two directions between their desires for a sustainable future and an ‘on-trend’ wardrobe. The aim of this paper is to explore how the TikTok fashion community highlights the internal conflicts faced by Generation Z, who strive to create a sustainable future while keeping up with ever-increasing trend cycles. This paper comes under the stream of Communities and social media. This is the case as I will be arguing How the unique nature of TikTok encourages the formation of diverse and accepting communities, the consequences of these diverse communities in regard to fast fashion, and the debate around fast fashion on TikTok and the multiple perspectives it showcases.

 

Formation of new communities

The TikTok fashion community is an example of how the TikTok app encourages the formation of new communities that are not tied to traditional ideas of community. Traditional ideas of community revolve around densely connected networks of close social ties, according to Wellman (2018). However, these communities are typically lacking diversity of people and thought, which conflicts with modern values such as diversity and equity. TikTok is a unique platform in the sense that the app takes on the onus of learning what you like and recommending content. Platforms such as YouTube and Instagram also do feature recommended content, but this is only curated after making conscious efforts to direct the algorithm in your chosen directions. According to Lovejoy, (2022) the TikTok algorithm can learn a user’s interests in as little as 40 minutes. Sot, (2022) Argues that this has allowed for users to seek out safe spaces on the app where likeminded people from diverse locations can come together, discuss common interests, and feel free to express themselves. These specific ‘safe spaces’ on TikTok are communities which are not limited by place, demographic or belief system like Wellman’s, (2018) description of traditional community.

 

The TikTok fashion community is an example of how TikTok’s algorithm builds specific smaller communities. Whilst any TikTok user engaging with fashion content can be considered a part of the TikTok fashion community the algorithm’s highly curated recommendations result in the creation of many ‘Subcommunities’ within the Fashion community. As Jennings, (2022) discusses the larger TikTok fashion community is made up of multiple micro trends or ‘Cores’. These ‘Cores’ are evident of how diverse communities on TikTok are with contradictory aesthetics such as ‘Bellhopcore’, ‘Clown core’, and ‘Avant apocalypse’ all trending at once. It could be argued that without the TikTok algorithm these communities would never exist. The TikTok algorithm and its ability to determine user preferences has resulted in segmentation of existing communities into subcommunities.

 

Dangerous Trend-Cycle

Whilst the TikTok fashion community has allowed for free expression and the formation of like-minded accepting communities, the speeds at which ‘micro trends’ and ‘cores’ come in and out of fashion have a negative effect on the environment and speed up already fast fashion. Ewens, (2022) Argues that we have made the 20-year trend cycle ‘Obsolete’ and pop culture trends now last somewhere between 5 and 10 years. Micro trends which used to last 3-5 years have seen the most shocking change in speed. Micro trends now reportedly last ‘Months or even weeks’ according to Rudalevige, (2021) who also stated that ‘segmentation of taste’ has contributed to the speeding up of trend cycles. As these trends in the fashion industry live shorter and shorter lifespans fast fashion brands and duplicate makers race to have the latest styles out on sale as soon as they are trending, and the brands are getting faster. As Jones, (2022) explains, fast fashion brands have now reached the point where they have stockpiles of ‘possible trends’, this is far from where fast fashion brands were at the beginning of the 2000s where it would take weeks to have a new design out. It has now reached the point where large fast fashion firms are not the only contributor, the internet has enabled a never-ending stream of duplicate sellers on platforms such as Amazon, AliExpress, and Etsy Rudalevige, (2021). TikTok understands the popularity of fast fashion and how the platform is being used more and more to push styles and trends. TikTok’s partnership with Shopify now enables sellers to access the TikTok ad manager making it easier to advertise on TikTok. Additionally, the platform has reportedly been testing a shopping feature within the app Gilliland, (2021). The development of subcommunities and diverse trends on TikTok has increased the trend cycle and production of fast fashion.

 

As the name suggests, fast fashion is not intended to last long, designs from leading fast fashion brands are reportedly intended to be worn no more than 10 times (McDonald et al, 2009). This low wearability lends itself well to a fast fashion culture where it is the norm to only wear an item as it’s trending. As a result, these clothing items are quickly disposed of, each year 92 million tons of clothing ends in landfill Igini, (2022). As well as having a negative environmental impact this trend chasing fast fashion is also synonymous with poor labour conditions across the industry. Fast fashion giant Shein, who currently hold the title of the top selling fast fashion brand in the US reportedly rely on cramped workshops in residential blocks where there is a high risk of factory firesand workers are overworked to meet demands Peiyue, (2021). These appalling labour conditions and environmental outcomes are a result of an already unsustainable fast fashion industry being supercharged by TikTok’s powerful algorithm and the demands of its users to always be on trend. Fast fashion, an unethical practise both in its working conditions and environmental impacts can be attributed to a need to stay on trend.

 

Gen Z Debate

The TikTok fashion communities’ unsustainable consumption of clothing has sparked an internal debate amongst gen Z, who must figure out how to be on trend whilst being advocates for environmental progress and sustainability. Generation Z has been labelled as the ‘Sustainability Generation’ by many different sources and pundits (Petro, 2021; Jahns, 2021; and Wood, 2022). It is believed that Gen Z’s concern for the environment stems from a greater awareness of the impacts of climate change and the increase in natural disasters in their lifetime Jahns, (2021). Gen Z seem to agree, a survey on Gen Z in relation to world issues by amnesty international revealed that 41% of respondents believe that climate change is the biggest issue facing us with an additional 36% citing pollution as the biggest issue. Gen Z are particularly vocal with their concern for the environment too, with teenage activist Greta Thunberg going viral in 2019 for lecturing world leaders on their lack of environmental action (Epstein, 2019). However, as we have discussed, gen Z’s current love of fast fashion and TikTok fashion trends is anything but environmental. This piece of hypocrisy is not lost on the TikTok fashion community and the debate around fast fashion and sustainability has been growing on the platform.

 

The TikTok fashion community has taken to the debate over fast fashion with several distinctive groups forming. To learn about the debate happening within the TikTok fashion community around fast fashion I decided to explore results recommended after searching particular phrases into the apps search bar. These searches included: ‘Shein’, ‘stop fast fashion’, ‘fast fashion debate’, ‘plus size fast fashion’, ‘plus size fast fashion debate’ and, ‘#Sheincares’. I would click on the first video TikTok placed in the top left corner and scroll onwards for a period of 10-15 minutes per phrase searched. My time spent exploring the videos revealed an active and complicated debate with multiple perspectives. As I watched the TikTok after TikTok I noticed patterns in opinions and eventually found 4 key groups whose views on the fast fashion debate vary greatly. The first group I named ‘Completely against fast fashion’. As the name suggests this group is completely against fast fashion, they speak with urgency and make continual references to the environmental and human rights injustices that occur as a result, this group is the most against fast fashion on the app and offer little alternatives instead prioritising the immediate end of fast fashion. The second group I named ‘reluctant consumers’ this group largely consisted of plus size women who frustrated with the lack of on trend clothes designed for people like them have turned to fast fashion. This group acknowledges the issues with fast fashion and expresses a desire for more brands to be inclusive of plus size consumers. I named the third group ‘defensive consumers’. This group consisted of largely plus size and low-income women who enjoy how fast fashion allows them to feel on trend. This group expresses their frustration with thinner and wealthier people making them feel bad for consuming fast fashion. The final group I named ‘Shein Girlies’ which features young woman who have attained a large following or aspire to through posting unboxing or ‘haul’ videos where they showcase their most recent fast fashion purchases. Several of the posters in the final group had an affiliate code for Shein that they encouraged viewers to use. This group made no reference to the debate around fast fashion, only used positive speak and worked to promote fast fashion brand more.

 

The four groups suggest that gen Z is indeed divided on this issue, whilst many Gen Z users express disgust at the environmental impact and working conditions of the fast fashion industry the temptation to be on trend is great. Kale, (2021) reported similar findings, a general dissatisfaction with the conditions and environmental impact but still greatly swayed by the latest styles and low prices. Generation Z is a divided Generation on this issue and as they prepare to enter positions of power Liu, (2022) they must figure out what is more important, trendy fashion or ethical clothing. Gen Z are rightfully known as the sustainable Generation, their knowledge of and concern for the environment is greater than any other Generation. However, debates have emerged as the so-called sustainable Generation consume large quantities of fast fashion. There are a large range of views within Gen Z that range with many criticising the environmental and ethics of fast fashion production with others praising fast fashion for making trendy clothes accessible for plus size and low-income consumers. Gen Z must figure out where they stand on fast fashion as they begin to take on more important roles in society.

 

The short video sharing app TikTok has grown drastically in popularity in the past five years. The app has managed to win over gen z who make up the majority of the platform’s users. The TikTok algorithm can quickly learn your interests based off your interactions with content on the app. This highly curated content has resulted in the formation of communities that contrast Wellman idea of traditional communities. TikTok communities are not limited by location or demographic and encourage free expression. The TikTok fashion communities is one of the largest on the app with dozens of ‘subcommunities’ forming around specific aesthetics and ‘cores’. This free, diverse expression is certainly great the social sense. However, the fast speed at which ‘cores’ and aesthetics go in and out of fashion on TikTok has increased the popularity of fast fashion. This cheap clothing is the product of extremely poor and illegal labour conditions and goes on to landfill sites. Generation Z’s label as the sustainable generation is challenged by their reliance on fast fashion. Debate around fast fashion and the ethics of it is ongoing as and a number of perspectives emerged, proving that this is not a simple issue. This paper seeks to, explain how TikTok created a unique type of community and how these communities have influenced trend cycles and fast fashion consumption. This paper will also explore the debate amongst Gen Z around fast fashion and the multiple perspectives within the debate.

 

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