Before the Internet and camera phones, fashion was once considered just a hobby or a job only by those who had the right skills and talent. It was an industry that was once reserved only for the select few who were chosen. In 2009, the fashion documentary “The September Issue” was released where Vogue Editor In Chief Anna Wintour famously said that the only way or a designer to be known around the world or make a name for themselves was if you were featured in the iconic magazine (The September Issue, 2009). Ten years later and that’s simply not the case anymore. With the rise of fashion bloggers and Instagram influencers, fashion has been democratised in more ways than one. The landscape of the fashion industry has become more inclusive and more accessible to the general public. Suddenly, everybody can be a fashion critic, a designer, photographer, model and it becomes this open conversation where everybody can participate. However, although it has dramatically changed the way we look at fashion, it also creates oversaturation. Because we are now constantly bombarded with expensive clothes and beautiful people on our phone screens, it creates an unhealthy beauty standard in our society especially with younger people. This essay will focus on the photo sharing app Instagram and its relationship with the fashion industry.
In an article by The Independent, they mention that “In a difficult economic context, the fashion industry, even the long-reluctant luxury goods sector, has turned towards digital technology. Image and social networks have become key elements of fashion and luxury companies’ strategies” (Moatti, 2018). Luxury houses like Gucci do a very good job at this. When the brand hired new Creative Director Alessandro Michele, every single photo from the old Gucci Instagram page was deleted which caused major outrage in the fashion community. Some even saw it an an insult to the previous designer before him. What the brand started posting were a series of artworks by Instagram artist ‘Coco Capitan’ famous for sketching random words on an empty white canvas. This new form of branding does not necessarily have to feature the clothes (although in the end, that’s the goal) but instead it’s designed to evoke a certain “feeling” or a “vibe”. It was a controversial move but very successful, according to Forbes, Gucci’s sale went up to 44.5% in eight months after that campaign and that 50% of Gucci’s sales now are coming from millenials, aka the Instagram generation (Danziger, 2017). The instagram page becomes fashions new look-book. It gives you a feeling that you want to be a part of, even though you don’t always know what you’re buying into.
Before Instagram, people would go to the newsstands and buy the latest issue of Vogue or Elle magazine.This authority has now shifted thanks to fashion bloggers and influencers. They have democratized the fashion industry with their own editorials, street style shots and everyday style photos uploaded on Instagram. The fashion magazines does not have the same authority as they used to. In an article on The Guardian, they mention that Vogue no longer has the power it once did due to the fact that “the evolution of technology and social media has allowed all consumers to have a voice”. The article also mentions that people choose to follow Instagrammers and Bloggers instead because they appeal to a personal aesthetic as opposed to Vogue’s mass appeal (Kay, 2017). More and more, big fashion brands are now aligning themselves with fashion influencers more evidently than the magazines. An article by Highsnobiety defines the influencer as someone who has “become the go-to vessel for brands to pin their latest marketing campaign on,” and that “people are far more likely to buy a product if it’s suggested to them buy someone that they know, trust, admire or generally have some sort of rapport with” (Eror, 2017). Another article by Glamour magazine, mention that the fashion influencer Aimee Song from @songofstyle who now has 5.2 million followers can get paid up to $15,000 USD per post. The article also mentions other notable fashion bloggers like Chiara Ferragni who made $9 million USD in a year just off partnerships with other brands (Leach, 2018). This is not to say that Vogue has lost its credibility, it’s just that now, there are other sources to go to which makes Vogue no longer just the authority when it comes to fashion.
One of the great things about Instagram is also the rise of fashion watch dogs. These are accounts that are not sponsored by brands, not owned by big companies but instead an independent voice that is able to speak out to a huge audience. Accounts like ‘Diet Prada’ are able to call-out fashion brands copying the designs of other brands, racism in the fashion industry and discussing many other controversies that happen in the fashion industry. This discussion happens in real time and the account now has a following of 1.1 million followers. One example that shows the power of Diet Prada was when the account posted screenshots of racist remarks that Stefano Gabbana (from ‘Dolce & Gabbana’) made towards Asian models during a private message. According to an article by Jezebel, after the news broke out via Instagram “Chinese models pulled out of the show, celebrities expressed disdain for the brand and the show was ultimately cancelled as a result of Diet Prada’s effort”. The conversations are also open among the comment section which means it becomes a community instead of just a conventional source. The article goes on to say that the success of Diet Prada and many other fashion watchdog accounts prove that “there’s a hunger among fashion and beauty fans for legitimate industry reporting and criticism in unconventional spaces. And as traditional fashion media becomes more beholden to access journalism and other revenue streams, indie voices working outside these institutions are more important than ever” (Cills, 2019). This David and Goliath-like relationship in the fashion industry goes back to the Henry Jenkins book ‘The Cultural Logic of Media Convergence’ when he mentions that “consumers are learning how to use these different media technologies to bring the flow of media more fully under their control and to interact with other users. They are fighting for the right to participate more fully in their culture, to control the flow of media in their lives and to talk back to mass market content” (Jenkins, 2004, p. 37).
Important conversations like diversity in the fashion industry is also something that has greatly improved since Instagram has launched. In a Vogue interview, Eva Chen, the Director of Fashion Partnerships at Instagram said that the app has created a “new level of transparency and expectation” and that it has allowed everyday people to raise awareness on certain issues (Jiang, 2017). In another Vogue article, they mentioned an incident where James Scully – a model casting director, created an Instagram post naming and shaming fashion brands for model mistreatment and discrimination during castings/fashion shows specifically Balenciaga where it was said that they asked modelling agencies they “did not want black models”. Big name models like Helena Christensen, Joan Smalls, Elsa Hosk were then quick to back up Scully on social media about the bad working conditions which ultimately led to the firings of two casting teams responsible for Balenciaga (Milligan, 2017).
In 2016, Instagram also launched a campaign with the hashtag #runwayforall which is aimed to make the fashion industry more inclusive specifically shining the spotlight on models of colour and plus size models that we may usually not see in typical fashion campaigns. In an interview with Time magazine, Kristen Joy Watts – Instagram’s Fashion & Arts Lead told the magazine that the campaign was “created to showcase unconventional models who were fearlessly telling their own narratives in an industry that’s long been critiqued for its narrow ideals of beauty” she then goes on to say that “Our goal is to highlight some of the bravest and most creative models on Instagram who are building their own audiences and telling their own stories”. She also says in the article that the biggest breakout stars on Instagram are the ones that are building their own audiences and telling their own stories (Lang, 2016). The campaign was a big success and brands were quick to follow through with the promise of more diversity and more sizes. Brands like ‘Universal Standard’ who started off as an indie fashion label on Instagram that offers sizes 00 to 44, is now doing a collaboration with high end Los Angeles brand ‘Rodarte’. It’s revolutionary that major high end fashion brands are wanting to associate themselves with bigger size fashion and this is thanks to the power of Instagram (Huber, 2019).
Fashion was once used as an escape but now, everytime we open our phone screens it’s right there. Much like an overplayed news coverage, fashion becomes extremely repetitive when its on your Instagram screen all the time. Twenty years ago, there would only be two forms of fashion shows held every year for a brand. There is the Spring/Summer collection and the Fall/Winter. Nowadays, there are 8 different seasons (like the Resort Collection and the Pre-Fall Collection) every year for every brand designed to please an visual-hungry Instagram generation. This then causes major fashion fatigue and designed to make us want to move on to the next it-bag even before they released the previous one. One interesting case study is the Dior ‘Saddle Bag’. A cult-bag originally from the early 2000’s (seen on Sex & The City) that the brand tried to bring back for 2018. To create hype for its release, Dior sent the bags to 100 different fashion influencers on Instagram all they all posted about the bag at the same time. ‘Diet Prada’ (Instagram’s fashion watch-dog) was quick to call out on the influencers posting about it simultaneously by saying “ Love the @Dior saddle, but is this a low-key ad campaign or what? No #ad #sponsored or gift indications. Sketchy?”. According to a Refinery29 article, influencers must make a clear notice that a post is an advert or sponsored if they are getting paid by the brand which none of the influencers did. Instead of promoting the bag, the posts from the influencers did the exact opposite. Fashion writer and influencer expert Taylor Lorenz said in the article that “What they’ve [Dior] done is completely saturated the market and the bag is going to have a shorter shelf life because of it,” he then goes on to say that “There’s always some fashion item, jewelry item or ‘look’ on Instagram that every influencer gets, it’s really hot and then you’re kind of like, ‘Okay, I’m bored, I’ve seen this one million times’” (Gush, 2018). This goes to show you that when fashion becomes too accessible, it tends to create oversaturation. Our attention spans as an audience become shorter, the trends will only last a couple of months and the ’allure’ and the ‘elusiveness’ of luxury fashion vanishes. Whether this is good thing or a bad thing depends on whether you’re talking to a fashion fanatic or the average consumer.
There are many good things that can be said about the democratisation of the fashion industry. Instagram has helped brands be readily consumable with the touch of a button and has greatly broken down that barrier that separates the creators and the audience. Some brands also use Instagram to generate controversy or publicity. We are also seeing more inclusivity in the fashion industry and no longer is it reserved for the behemoths like Vogue. What was once a one way conversation becomes an open dialogue that happens in real time and this greatly benefits both the consumer and the producer and the brand. We’re seeing diversity in race, colour, gender thanks to this dialogue. Although at times, it can feel oversaturated and repetitive. Being constantly bombarded with glamourous fashion shots, expensive clothes and beautiful models 24/7 can have a negative impact for the brand also. However, it’s more important to note the cultural impact that social media has made for the fashion industry.
References:
Cills, H. (2019). We Need Fashion Industry Watchdogs Now More Than Ever. [online] Jezebel. Available at: https://jezebel.com/we-need-fashion-industry-watchdogs-now-more-than-ever-1832123940 [Accessed 6 Apr. 2019].
Danzinger, P. (2019). Gucci’s Cracked The Luxury Code With Millennials, Thanks To Its Dream Team Of Bizzarri And Michele. [online] Forbes.com. Available at: https://www.forbes.com/sites/pamdanziger/2017/11/16/guccis-cracked-the-luxury-code-with-millennials-thanks-to-its-dream-team-of-bizzarri-and-michele/#e3bfe1015239 [Accessed 8 Apr. 2019].
Eror, A. (2019). Are Instagram Influencers Bad for Fashion?. [online] Highsnobiety. Available at: https://www.highsnobiety.com/2017/04/13/fashion-influencers-instagram-social-media/ [Accessed 3 Apr. 2019].
Gush, C. (2018). Dior’s Iconic Saddle Bag Is Back – Along With A Controversial Influencer Campaign. [online] Refinery29.com. Available at: https://www.refinery29.com/en-gb/dior-saddle-bag-influencer-disclosure [Accessed 11 Apr. 2019].
Huber, E. (2019). Universal Standard & Rodarte Teamed Up On A Game-Changing Size-Inclusive Collection. [online] Refinery29.com. Available at: https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/2019/04/229325/rodarte-universal-standard-plus-size-collection-2019 [Accessed 5 Apr. 2019].
Jenkins, H. (2004). The Cultural Logic of Media Convergence. International Journal of Cultural Studies, 7(1), 33 -43. doi:10.1177/1367877904040603 [Available via Reading List] [Accessed 6 Apr. 2019]
Jiang, E. (2017). Eva Chen On How Instagram Is Changing Fashion. [online] Vogue.co.uk. Available at: https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/how-instagram-is-changing-fashion-eva-chen-interview [Accessed 6 Apr. 2019].
Kay, K. (2019). Does the fashion industry still need Vogue in the age of social media?. [online] The Guardian. [Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2017/jul/08/does-fashion-industry-need-vogue-in-instagram-age] [Accessed 6 Apr. 2019].
Lang, C. (2016). Instagram Tackles Diversity. [online] Time. Available at: http://time.com/4354259/instagram-diversity-fashion-runwayforall/ [Accessed 8 Apr. 2019].
Leach, S. (2019). After Almost a Decade, Aimee Song’s Influence Is More Bankable Than Ever. [online] Glamour. Available at: https://www.glamour.com/story/after-almost-a-decade-aimee-song-influence-is-more-bankable-than-ever [Accessed 4 Apr. 2019]
Milligan, L. (2017). Supermodels Back Model Mistreatment Revelation. [online] Vogue.co.uk. Available at: https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/james-scully-model-mistreatment-post [Accessed 7 Apr. 2019].
Moatti, V. (2018). How Instagram became the natural showcase for the fashion world. [online] The Independent. Available at: https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/instagram-fashion-industry-digital-technology-a8412156.html [Accessed 6 Apr. 2019].
The September Issue. (2009). [film] Directed by R.J Cutler. United States: Roadside Attractions.
Hi OAbuyabor,
This was a really interesting topic! You have used excellent examples throughout your argument which made your paper very engaging! I particularly liked your discussion of Diet Prada – it is amazing how much information a social media user can source in order to impact a brand’s reputation!
As you have proven, Instagram has had a wide range of positive impacts on the fashion industry. Addressing the other side of the argument, however, alongside your discussion of oversaturation, do you think that social media platforms such as Instagram promote and contribute to a consumer culture? You mention that brands on Instagram make “us want to move on to the next it-bag even before they released the previous one.” Do you think this encourages a degree of wastefulness since Instagram users are constantly being exposed to the ‘new’ fashion trend each season and thus, may feel pressure to remain trendy and ultimately consume more fashion products?
Looking forward to your response,
Thanks,
Devyn 🙂
If you’d like to read my paper located in the stream of Communities and Web 2.0, you can find it here: https://networkconference.netstudies.org/2019Curtin/2019/05/05/active-now-how-web-2-0-allows-for-the-formation-of-online-communities-capable-of-initiating-change-through-activism/
Hey Devyn that’s such a good point and it definitely encourages more consumerism which means fashion turns at a much faster pace compared to pre-instagram days. I think that’s why sustainable fashion is such a big topic right now as an effect for the extreme amounts of clothes produced. If you look at Zara for example, every week it’s a ‘new collection’ which means they have so much waste. Burberry was also on the news six months ago for burning millions of dollars worh of clothes and accessories. So many brands are now aiming for transparency and showing us what actually happens behind closed doors which is interesting. A lot of consumers are also choosing brands that are ethical with production and are sustainable to the environment. I guess the beauty of the internet is that we can shed light and talk about important topics like these.
Hi Devyn,
I 100% agree, this paper was well researched with a fascinating topic that did well to touch base on so many different dimensions of the same centralised idea of an artistic industry’s presence online. The section on Diet Prada held a lot of analytic strength in the way Devyn utilised its focus to account for varied frameworks in fashion. The amount (and use) of sources gave this great depth as well!
Your questions are great associations with sustainability as this is often quite a sensitive subject in the fashion industry but one that is growing in public awareness and fashion companies are taking note!
Renae
This is really interesting and something I have no considered much with the rise of social media – and particularly Instagram. It’s so great that there is a rise in diversity in the fashion industry as a result.
But do you think that because people who wouldn’t usually consume much fashion content are now consuming it at a large rate, due to Instagram, this is causing higher feelings of inadequacy due to some appearance and body standards set by some fashion brands? Even though diversity is increasing – do you think the standard originally set by the fashion industry and still lingering and spreading through Instagram?
I think with the rise of streetwear and fashion becoming democratised people have a lot more awareness with brands. 10 years ago Balenciaga was a brand that would only be known by fashion fanatics and people who we would consider as ‘insiders’. Today, my 12 year old nephew from The Philippines considers himself a big fan of Balenciaga and how badly he wants their ‘dad shoes’. To me that shows he power of fashion and how much bigger of an audience it reaches compared to before Instagram when all we had was niche Tumblr pages and MySpace. Hope that answers your question and glad you enjoyed my paper
Hello,
I really loved reading your paper because i couldn’t agree more! We are definitely being bombarded with so many brands and styles of fashion through Instagram daily. I feel like whenever a new trend arrises, most influencers and brands are jumping on the band wagon and fashion begins to get repetitive, such as the ‘dad sneakers’ comeback trend for example.
A sentence that really stood out to me was “Fashion was once used as an escape but now, everytime we open our phone screens it’s right there.” I almost miss the days when fashion was mainly viewed in magazines, and we had to wait every month to see the exciting new collections and trends for the season. But as you said, it is now there everytime we open our phones, do you think this positively or negatively impacts the fashion industry?
Feel free to check out my paper: https://networkconference.netstudies.org/2019Curtin/2019/05/03/under-the-influence-social-media-influencers-and-their-role-in-impacting-millennials-travel-decisions/
There are times when I think fashion has definitely lost all its ‘romance’ and that exclusivity but I also think in order to move forward as a fashion brands, they have to be aware that ‘exclusivity’ really no longer exists. There’s a much wider reach in fashion these days and people are a lot more aware and want transparency in their brands. Look at ASOS for example, sure they are fast fashion but they also listen to their audience. They offer diverse range of sizes compared to other brands that don’t do that. So it’s all about inclusivity and fashion has learned that the hard way. So to answer your question it’s definitely a positive 🙂
Hi OAbuyabor,
This was a very interesting read, I find it unfortunate that over-saturation can lead to a decline in a certain items popularity even if some artists love it, do you think this is an unfortunate side-effect of something becoming too accessible and being worn by too many people. I think the same thing can apply to other things as well like music or memes, where they become stale if people play or use them too often.
It was interesting to read about Instagram’s accessibility and diversity, as I believe it is becoming more and more popular and many influencers are certainly going to need to take full advantage of this. The Dior saddle bag campaign was interesting to read about as I had not realised that they did this, do you think the criticisms against them were warranted or unfair? I think it’s interesting when people and organisations are called out on this sort of thing because it can become a controversy very quickly.
I’m happy that the diversity of instagram has allowed all types of people with all types of fashion senses to engage with the platform and as you say the inclusivity of it is much more appealing and less intimidating now. Do you think people can too easily surrender to posting fashion that is more in line with common trends or do you think people are becoming more comfortable with finding their own feet and showing off their own personal taste with fashion? I’d be interested to know your thoughts as brand deals are a very powerful thing especially in the fashion industry.
Thanks for the read! Louis
Oh it’s definutely all about Branding these days in the age of social media. It’s up for debate whether we are doing it for our own personal style or to give our online audience what they want. I think we are seeing a lot more exciting things in fashion especially after that whole ‘minimalist trend’ faded away. If we look at brands like Gucci for example that cater to a more outrageous and eccentric demographic and that’s being embraced by everyday people who you think would never wear a pair of $800 fur loafers. So I think bring on the extravagance, the campiness and the glamour because that’s what makes fashion fun in the first place 🙂
Hi OAbuyabor,
I found your title very interesting as I’m into fashion so this insight me to take a look at your paper. Firstly, I do not agree with the fact that you mentioned that due to digitization, Vogue magazines do not have the impact that it has before as I found that they really adapted themselves to the technological changes as during the Met Gala that is an annual gala organized by Vogue, they have now input some interviews that are realized by some celebrities on the red carpet to give the fans insights of the ceremony and post them on their YouTube channel and they also filmed the famous “73 questions with…” where the famous celebrities that we appreciate are interviewed. I agreed with the fact that diversity has improved during these past years giving the opportunity to each and everyone in this industry. Instagram has open many doors for both influencers and different fashion industry where the opportunities are endless on this platform. This was a very well-written paper, I really enjoy reading. I look forward to your response and you could also check out my paper where I talk about social media and its adverse effects on users identity.
https://networkconference.netstudies.org/2019Curtin/2019/05/06/social-media-has-a-detrimental-connection-between-people-and-their-authentic-offline-self/
Hey Abuyabor,
I thoroughly enjoyed reading your paper, it was very informative and intuitive. I also found your structure to be very effective and I appreciate how you provided examples of real-life situations to make your statements clearer. It really adds value to your writing.
There’s no doubt that today social networks in general, especially Instagram, has become an indispensable medium and a vital sales channel for fashion brands. It definitely changed how consumers and brands interact in the 21st century.
Nonetheless, don’t you feel that Instagram user’s exposure to images of fashion models highly contributes to body dissatisfaction? In my opinion, we are rigidly being immersed in an environment where beauty is continually being defined based on what is depicted on online pages of fashion brands, adverts and so on. In reality, we always see a variation of body shapes and sizes with no two bodies looking exactly the same. Yet, on Instagram you would find the same seamlessly refined body shapes again and again. What is your opinion on this heavily filtered reflection of the fashion culture that promotes unrealistic and unattainable standards of beauty?
Thanks,
Asliyah.
Hi OAbuyabor,
I really enjoyed reading your paper, as you presented an engaging topic and a good argument supported by relevant examples. I particularly liked how you have unpacked and explored multiple strong, key ideas that offered both the positive and negative impacts of Instagram on the fashion industry. Specifically, the discussion on Diet-Prada and the idea of the fashion watch dog was excellent and not something I had previously thought about.
My only recommendation is to perhaps consider re-working your structure, and include linking sentences between paragraphs so that there is a flow/ inter-connected thread throughout the paper. In regards to the idea of increased ‘waste’ from fast-fashion brands as a result of Instagram influencers, is this sustainable or ethical? What are fashion brands discussing or planning to do about this issue via Instagram? I am aware that single use plastic bags have been removed from Australian retail stores and replaced with recycle or reusable ones, is this possibly where the fashion industry might shift towards in the future?
In addition, in relation to the example discussed about how we are starting to see an increase in size options available from fashion brands I.e. plus size, you attribute this change to Instagram. I question whether this shift is afforded by the technology/ Instagram platform itself? Or perhaps this could be a social performance that is embedded in the evolving tastes and preferences in modern society?
Overall a great paper, keep up the good work!
Kind Regards,
Alexandra
Hey Alexandra thank you so much for your suggestion and glad you enjoyed my paper. I think inclusivity and sustainability are two very important topics in the fashion industry right now and there are many brands that are giving us this. Genderless fashion brands for example are a great example which we can find on Instagram and also brands like Everlane which offer sustainable clothing. These are from listening to what people are asking for. I do think that Instagram is not just a networking app, it’s a sign of the times.
Hi OAbuyabor,
What an interesting topic! You have backed up your points in this paper very well with your use of examples and great research.
One point that particularly stood out to me is when you mentioned that “everybody can be a fashion critic, a designer, photographer, model”. The integration of technology and Web 2.0 in Fashion is resulting in a virtual world of its own. When reading your paper, I was thinking about the role of Digital Models in the Fashion industry, and how big brands are using these unrealistic fictional characters to model their products. These are computer-generated models that are modelling for big brands such as Balmain, one very popular digital model on Instagram is called ‘Miquela’ (@lilmiquela). She has over 1.5 million followers, and it is surprising to see how many people are ‘inspired’ by her. I am interested to hear your view on this, how do you see fashion transforming if these digital models are being used for campaigns instead of real models?
Thanks,
Aimal
Feel free to check out my paper here: https://networkconference.netstudies.org/2019Curtin/2019/05/07/travel-vloggers-using-social-media-to-bring-tourism-back-to-pakistan/
Hi OAbuyabor,
Thank you for an interesting and insightful paper! I have a real interest in instagram but mainstream fashion accounts is not something I have looked at with great detail, although I do follow a lot of vintage and sustainable fashion accounts. On this note, I found it really interesting how you mentioned that nowadays we can expect to see 8 different collections in a year from a brand that 20 years ago would have only done 2. I am wondering if in your research you encountered much of a pushback against fast fashion, seeing as the instagram generation also (generally speaking) have a greater social conscience, and the devastating environmental effects of mass produced clothing are becoming more well known? I wonder if you know if a socially conscious account like Diet Prada has ever made a comment about the sustainability of producing so much fashion, so many different trends that can only be worn for a limited time before they become passe?
Congratulations again on a great paper! I also wrote about social media and focussed on influencers, my paper is here: https://networkconference.netstudies.org/2019Curtin/2019/05/05/from-fans-to-sisters-expectations-of-intimacy-within-youtuber-fandom/
Thanks,
Cass
Hello OAbuyabor,
Your paper was a pleasant read and it contained a variation of information. I never took interest in fashion bloggers but now I will. However, a fashion blogger does not always advertise luxury products that are out of reach for the followers who are often teenagers. Fashion bloggers for me are one of the truest bloggers online if they advertise only textile and accessory products. As being a fashion blogger means sharing what he/she personally like, hence sharing genuine product. But the whole industry is a lucrative business therefore quality and honest opinions are often not taken in consideration. Product placements bring money home so influencers will mainly do that instead of being sincere. I have a question for you; what influencers should do to have a positive impact on teenagers.
I will be looking for your response! And thank you for this paper!
You are invited to check my paper; https://networkconference.netstudies.org/2019Curtin/2019/05/06/online-games-and-social-media-platforms-nowadays-make-one-entity/
Hi OAbuyabor,
Wow, what a great paper, my favourite read of the conference so far.
You have highlighted a relevant topic with great examples and good insights. Nicely done.
You’ve also picked up on some interesting areas where the fashion industry has taken human behaviour into account – you write “It gives you a feeling that you want to be a part of, even though you don’t always know what you’re buying into.”
This realisation that people don’t want to miss out is a good opportunity for the industry to make extra sales.
Then you write “people are far more likely to buy a product if it’s suggested to them by someone that they know…”
This is such an interesting concept for the fashion industry to latch on to. By taking advantage of the links to our trusted connections and networks the reach of the fashion industry now only ceases when internet connections are down.
I’m happy to learn from your article that there are some influencers behaving like watch dogs to hold brands accountable for bad behaviour. Do you think that there are any out there who focus on garment manufacturers who make very little money in third world countries when they make clothes that cost hundreds of dollars? I’m always trying to buy things that come from sustainable materials and that have come from manufacturers that pay living wages and I definitely think there’s a lot of others who care about that too.
Thanks for a great paper,
Ces
Hi there OAbuyabor,
I loved reading your paper. It was relevant, fun, interesting, and written in terms that anyone can understand. I also loved your use of pop-culture references, like talking about the Diet Prada Instagram account, as I could relate and understand your topic so much better.
As Ces mentioned about, you have highlighted a relevant topic and picked up on some interesting areas where the fashion industry has taken human behavior into account. I fully agree with her here, especially backed up by your point that “people are far more likely to buy a product if it’s suggested to them by someone that they know…”. This in a way proves that online networks have a huge impact on our personal lives.
I also looked into how social media and web 2.0 affects everyday life, specifically in our interaction with activism if you want to check it out – https://networkconference.netstudies.org/2019Curtin/2019/05/05/web-2-0-effect-on-societys-engagement-with-activism/#comments
One thing that Instagram has also done for society is to make current fashion trends affordable and accessible for people of every class. For example, finding Instagram fashion labels that sell bags similar to Gucci or Prada for a fraction of the price. Many influencers also do collaborations with cheaper stores, such as Boohoo, Begining Boutique, etc. which offer cheap alternatives for those who can not afford luxury fashion labels. This allows people from any background to be able to afford to fit in fashion wise with peers. Do you believe this is a positive or negative thing?
Looking forward to hearing your response! Alice 🙂
Hi OAbuyabor,
What a read! Your conference paper was so fascinating and engaging, I really enjoyed reading about your chosen topic!
I definitely have to agree with you, as you have acknowledged, Instagram has been such a strong platform for individuals to express diversity within the fashion industry. I find this definitely one of the beneficial aspects Instagram has to offer, as it enables individuals to speak out about current societal issues. What are your thoughts on this?
It is also crazy how the digital world has taken over magazines, as I feel Instagram has become almost like a digitalised niche community magazine itself. What is your stance on marketing of the fashion industry online? Do you think in the future Instagram will completely over-rule any form of soft copy communication such as magazines?
Looking forward to hearing your reply! 🙂 Taneesha
Hello OAbuyabor!
What a great read, and as a follower of Diet Prada myself, I am very happy see their inclusion within this topic. I also really enjoyed the inclusion of the point of the development of Diet Prada as a community, as I have also noted this kind of communication and involvement from their followers.
In regard to the use of influencers to market luxury brands, many have criticised this as ‘cheapening’ such brands through these associations, what are your thoughts on this?
As the Met Gala now inviting influencers to the ball, does this mean they are now legitimised amongst the community?
Here is the link to my paper on the impact of Facetune amongst the Instagram influencer community, if you would like to have a read 🙂
https://networkconference.netstudies.org/2019Curtin/2019/05/02/facetune-a-simple-photofix-or-a-more-complex-identity-problem/
I look forward to your response,
Sophie
Hey, this was a good read and I found it interesting as I rather enjoy fashion.
I do think though that although social media platforms such as Instagram have allowed anyone to become a part of the fashion community, it used to be more exclusive and made the industry more special. I feel that it also does set unhealthy standards for viewers as we are constantly viewing items we can not afford and are bombarded with advertisements and influencers trying to convince us to buy fashion products. Specifically to have that ‘Instagram appeal/look”.
Instagram presents false expectation for people to live up to and in relation to fashion, how they should look and that they must buy the clothes to look good on social media particularly Instagram. Its similar to what my paper discussed about the idealism on social media and how people are pressured to conform to it.
Hello there OAbuyabor,
Insightful read indeed. Democratisation of the fashion industry through Instagram is reality nowadays as more and more influencers are collaborating with fashion labels.
Such a scene can also be observed among influencers on Instagram in Mauritius. Influencers on such platforms are been looked upon as celebrities these days, or the newly coined term ‘micro-celebrities’.
But don’t you think that this is a cheaper way for fashion marketers to advertise their products rather than spending millions collaborating with le-dit stars?
Regards,
Keshav
Do no hesitate to look at my paper on : https://networkconference.netstudies.org/2019Curtin/2019/05/09/social-media-influencers-defining-construction-of-identit/
Hey there !
Your title was very appealing associating it in today’s context. Being a user of instagram since years I can see that your paper is relevant to how it was and until now. With the rise of participatory culture, and features such as the heart ( like button) in instagram it has enable the users to get feedback and comments. Based on those they create a popularity and have followers which compared a decade before we could only access what designers are proposing to the public. We now can create our own wardrobe with all the facilities we have. But one simple question, do you think with time the brand that used to be the pioneer in this field will lose its customer interest and value ? Keep us posted.
Regards,
Shaf Sookharry
Hello OAbuyabor,
Your paper is my favourite from the conference as it was engaging all throughout. I also learnt a lot from your paper namely; the sudden upsurge of Gucci which I witnessed but never understood the reason behind young people buying so much Gucci. To be honest, at some point I even thought that it was because of the song ‘Gucci Gang’.
The Instagram page named ‘Diet Prada’ that you used to illustrate some arguments in your essay was a pleasant discovery for me and I ended spending an hour scrolling through it. Overall, I really enjoyed your paper.
Indeed social media has democratised the fashion industry and made it more open to the world. However, as you stated, there is an over saturation fashion-related content online and this is particularly relevant specially since the MET Gala 2019 just took place and the Cannes Festival is ongoing. Don’t you think that social media is also driving consumerism in an unhealthy manner?
Hi O Abuyabor,
I really like your paper. I am really preoccupied that we are living in a world that is going too fast with social media. Do you think think of some modifications regarding this unlimited flow of visuals appearing on all the social media,especially for Instagram? What can be done to reduce this over saturation of content?
Thank you for responding,
D Constance
Hello,
What an interesting paper and not something I would of thought about.
There are so many fashion brands on Instagram even the hiring boutiques. We are seeing influencers in the newest and latest and rarely ever see them wearing the same outfit twice,
Interesting paragraph about ‘Diet Prada’ as this was also something I never knew.
I do enjoy though seeing the different body shapes and races being promoted now thanks to all the body positive campaigns you see online, makes it extremely easy for everyone to enjoy.
Do you think buying online takes away from the ‘rich lavish lifestyle’ of going in store? for example visiting a Gucci store and going through the ‘real’ purchasing process? Or do you think it’s exactly the same online?
Thanks again for a refreshing angle,
If you’d like to have a read of my paper, feel free.
https://networkconference.netstudies.org/2019Curtin/2019/05/05/uncovering-all-sides-of-social-media-the-good-the-bad-and-the-ugly/
Hi OAbuyabor,
Unique topic and relevant but dynamic relationship between digitisation and fashion through the exploration of Instagram.
Contextualising historical perception of fashion foreshadows the transitions that have occurred since and I believe this introduction adds great curiosity and self reflection on where exactly the perception and consumption of fashion has moved since then. Following on with this, your mention of Anna Wintour’s quote on how to establish oneselve as a prominent figure in the fashion industry, invites debate that is addressed by the entirety of the topic itself.
Mentioning “10 years later” is also an interesting measurement of time because fashion trends tend to be observed in retrospection through decades.
Following on with your paper, inclusivity is an important note you have made In how the “rise of fashion bloggers and Instagram influencers” change the climate of fashion. An accessibility to the general public, afforded by the internet, lends to greater “creative fever” bushing the boundaries of participation and contribution towards contextualisation of social issues in fashion. This occurrence also exists in visual art which I believe you have implied in your specific reference to Gucci’s digital presence.
Occupations of the fashion industry play a heavy role in this as people are often allocated to specific roles that deal with management of online presence from the context of a “fashion powerhouse”/ brand. Despite variety, different jobs avaliable are still contained under the influence of all the roles you mentioned at the beginning of your paper so I took that section to be a complimentary homage to the core of the fashion industry.
The contrast through reference to “over saturation” makes immediate sense to the list of fashion occupations you previously mentioned as it establishes prevailing ideals of what/who constitutes the standards of beauty and how this may affect the younger generations. Following this point on with your simple, straight-forward statement of using Instagram as your case study, gets me making associations in my head between all the different avenues of communication the fashion industry is able to utilise online. Specific examples of this, for what I believe to be one of your strongest points, was contextualisation of Gucci’s new artistic direction. Like visual art, the presence of fashion industries online depends on interest, emotion and response to what clothing pieces/ concepts are attempting to communicate. The common stereotype in runway fashion in particular, is one that perceives clothing and concepts to be removed from practicality and public relation. The way I see it as a consumer of fashion blogs, is Instagram as a tool for communicating a designer’s vision through deconstruction of concepts like a process and reversing it back to the end product. Seeing this journey of inspiration brings, as you mentioned, an emotive element that audiences are then able to relate to.
the facts and figures you used in y9our paper gives strong foundations to why visual art and instagram ,as an enabler for expressed concept development/inspiration, is significant to the discussion of social media’s role in the fashion industry.
Use of context-specific terminology such as “look-book” also personalises the paper to a specialisation which shows consideration for subject matter. Additional to this is your mentioning of shifts in cultural authorisation in fashion as governing an understanding of digitisations impact on public exposure and engagement. I believe sites such as Instagram act as avenues for ordinary distributors to enter the flow of fashion online and gives the marginalised, a “voice” as you said.
This relationship between digitisation and the audience context brings up another strong point you mentioned: The differentiation between mass appeal and personal aesthetic/appreciation. I too believe the establishment of individualistic opportunity for expression awakens the public to alternative spaces of engagement. The examination of economy under this context is still relevant to this day with instagram being more than just a social statement for fashion but an encouragement into cultural commodification and commercialisation. This financial element shifts the hierarchy of fashion to the favour of ambiguous and fluid influences that hold new power relations in the fashion industry. Expanding upon this environment is lastly, the socio-cultural frameworks existent in the market of fashion, where social issues in general art are inevitably on par with debate around ethical and sustainability practices in major fashion brands.
Do you believe over saturation in the fashion market contributes to increased artistic expression In the long run? and if so, what do you believe are long term consequences of the politics of Instagram on the self esteem of generations to come?
Great paper,
Renae